Lake Khövsgöl is Mongolia's ‘Blue Pearl’, the second largest freshwater lake in Asia by volume, 1,645 metres above sea level, 136 kilometres long. In winter it freezes to two metres of ice, thick enough to drive a vehicle across. The first weekend of March, the shore community gathers for the Ice Festival.
The Scene
Ice sculptures carved overnight by local and international artists. Dragons, eagles, chess pieces. Children racing on ice skates. Shamans from the Darkhad ethnic group performing ritual ceremonies at dawn. Reindeer teams from the Tsaatan people in town for the weekend. Horse-drawn sled races on the lake.
The Games
Ankle-bone shooting, a traditional nomadic game with small finger-flicks of polished sheep knuckles at targets on ice. Tug-of-war. Traditional wrestling in full dell coats. A cross-lake relay that takes teams about four hours.
What to Pack
Temperatures are -15°C to -25°C during the day. -30°C at night. Full expedition winter kit. Hand warmers. Goggles, because the reflection off the ice is intense.
Where to Stay
Khatgal village on the south shore has small guesthouses. We arrange a warmer option, an insulated ger with wood stove on the lake's west bank, transfers by 4WD across the ice.
Getting There
Fly UB to Mörön (1.5 hrs). Drive 100 km north to Khatgal (2.5 hrs). Total travel day.
