Most travellers rush through Ulaanbaatar to get to the countryside. That is a mistake. UB holds more of modern Mongolia than any other single place. Here is how to spend 48 hours well.
Oyungerel Enkhbat
Mongolia is a country of 3.4 million people, of which 1.6 million live in Ulaanbaatar. This is where contemporary Mongolian culture is made: the galleries, restaurants, nightclubs, young Mongolia. Skipping UB to get to the dunes faster misses half the country.
Mongolia's largest working Buddhist monastery. Morning chants at 9am, circumambulation of the central temple, a 26-metre Avalokitesvara statue rebuilt after Stalinist destruction. Modest dress. Allow 90 minutes. Go with a Mongolian Buddhist guide for context, not a script.
Khorkhog (hot-stone lamb stew) for the history, Mongolian dumplings for texture, milk tea for ritual. Kink on the way out: every table gets a small bowl of mare's milk airag, which is an acquired taste. Decline politely if needed.
The full sweep from prehistory to Soviet era to independence. The Bronze Age deer stones on the ground floor and the 20th century displays on the top floor are the highlights. Allow 3 hours. Closed Monday.
Folk music, dance, throat singing, contortion, morin khuur (horse-head fiddle). 6pm daily, 1 hour, 60 USD. Touristy? Yes. Also: the best live presentation of traditional Mongolian performance arts anywhere.
A Soviet-era memorial with 360-degree views across the city and the Tuul River. Sunrise if you can handle it. Drive up, walk the last 300 steps.
No one comes to Mongolia for Indian food, but Hazara is the best Indian restaurant in Asia north of Delhi. An exception to our rule of only eating Mongolian in Mongolia. Or, for local food: Rosewood Bistro for a modern Mongolian take.
976 Art Gallery, Red Ger Art Gallery, National Modern Art Gallery. Mongolia has a thriving contemporary art scene. Baatartsogt Sandag and Uuriintuya Dagvasambuu are worth seeking out. Gallery opening nights happen Thursday evenings in the Baga Toiruu district.
Mongolia has a serious metal scene. The Haya and The Hu are homegrown global acts. Smaller bands play Friday and Saturday nights at The Garage and Republic. Alternatively: hot pot at Shifu near Zaisan is authentic Mongolian-Chinese fusion.
Shangri-La Ulaanbaatar for luxury (our preferred). Best Western Premier for mid-range. The Blue Sky Hotel for views from the top. Urgoo Guesthouse for budget. Each has a specific character.