Mongolia produces 40 percent of the world's cashmere. The very best Mongolian cashmere is extraordinary. The worst is blended junk. Here is how to tell the difference and where to buy.
Oyungerel Enkhbat
Cashmere comes from the undercoat fibres of specific goat breeds. In Mongolia, these are Altai Mountain goats. The fibres are hand-combed (not shorn) in spring when the goats moult, sorted by length and fineness, and spun into yarn. True cashmere is 14-16 microns in diameter, impossibly soft, and incredibly warm.
Mongolia produces about 10,000 tonnes of raw cashmere annually, second only to Inner Mongolia (China). The finest fibres come from Altai and Gobi goats. Gobi Corporation (the state-origin factory) is the largest and most respected manufacturer.
Real cashmere: silky, not scratchy. A small pull feels elastic, not crunchy. Burns to ash, not plastic ball. Prickly cashmere is wool-blend. Stiff cashmere is industrial processing.
Gobi Cashmere flagship: the factory-direct store. Highest quality, fair prices. Allow 2-3 hours.
Goyo: a premium brand, more fashionable designs, higher price.
State Department Store, top floor: multiple brands, bargaining acceptable.
Mary May: boutique, exclusive patterns.
Scarves (60-150 USD). Sweaters (180-500 USD). Blankets (200-600 USD). Gloves (40-80 USD). Socks (25-40 USD). Blended items are cheaper and not worth it.
On our Khangai tours, we stop at a traditional dehairing facility where you can see the fibre-sorting process. Not a gift shop, a working factory. Small bags of raw combed cashmere are sometimes available as a curiosity, not for manufacturing.
Cashmere is light and takes customs well. DHL from UB to most countries is 40-80 USD for a small box. We can coordinate shipping if you buy through our concierge.
Cashmere's popularity has put pressure on the Mongolian grassland from goat overgrazing. Choose brands (like Gobi Corp) that partner with nomad herders on sustainable stocking levels. The Sustainable Fibre Alliance certification is a start.